Breaking and entering like a perfectly formed wave

Skimming along the top avoiding a watery grave

Some might say that I’ve proved myself agile

But, if they could see inside, they would see I’m fragile

Marked up, bruised and  somewhat battered

Still, I always survive, I guess that’s what has mattered

At the first break of  the early morning dawn

I’m on top of my game until I’m already gone

Surfs Up! I feel the jolt deep inside my soul

Looking past the lip into the barrel’s roll

Slipping and sliding as I glide across the face

There is no safe space but this is truly my place

Becoming as one with the wave in the moment’s Zen

Blending my agile thoughts and memories between now and then